Simple Pump is designed to work with standard residential pressure tank systems, providing whole-house water during power outages or as a primary water source.
Pressure Capability Overview
Simple Pump can generate pressures exceeding typical household requirements:
- Maximum achievable: 100+ PSI (varies with depth)
- Typical home systems: 40-60 PSI
- Standard pressure tanks: 30-50 PSI cut-in/cut-out
How Pressure Tank Integration Works
Hand Pump Operation
- Pump handle creates mechanical pressure
- Water pushed through check valve
- Enters pressure tank
- Tank fills and pressurizes
- Standard faucet operation
Motorized Operation
- Motor drives pump automatically
- Pressure switch can control operation
- Hands-free tank filling
- Consistent pressure delivery
Configuration Options
Option 1: Via Existing Pitless Adapter
Setup: Simple Pump connects through your existing pitless adapter, sharing underground piping with your submersible.
Advantages:
- Uses existing plumbing
- No additional underground work
- Delivers to existing pressure tank
- Seamless backup capability
Requirements:
- Compatible pitless adapter
- Check valve installation
- Isolation valves recommended
Option 2: Dedicated Line
Setup: Separate pipe from pump head to pressure tank.
Advantages:
- Independent of submersible system
- Simpler installation in some cases
- Clear separation of systems
Requirements:
- New plumbing run
- Check valve and isolation
- Pressure gauge recommended
Depth Adjustment for Pressure
When pumping into a pressurized system, you must account for pressure head in your depth calculations.
Formula
Effective Maximum Depth = Rated Depth - (Tank Pressure × 2.31)
Example Calculations
40 PSI System:
- Pressure head: 40 × 2.31 = 92.4 feet
- 100CA max: 325 - 92.4 = 232.6 feet effective
50 PSI System:
- Pressure head: 50 × 2.31 = 115.5 feet
- 100CA max: 325 - 115.5 = 209.5 feet effective
60 PSI System:
- Pressure head: 60 × 2.31 = 138.6 feet
- 100CA max: 325 - 138.6 = 186.4 feet effective
Depth Table by Pressure
| Tank PSI | 100CA Max | 125CA Max | 200CA Max |
|---|---|---|---|
| 30 | 256 ft | 156 ft | 41 ft |
| 40 | 233 ft | 133 ft | 18 ft |
| 50 | 210 ft | 110 ft | - |
| 60 | 186 ft | 86 ft | - |
Required Components
For Any Pressure System
- Check valve - Prevents backflow (required)
- Pressure gauge - Monitor tank pressure
- Isolation valve - Isolate pump when not in use
Recommended Additions
- Pressure relief valve - Safety requirement
- Drain valve - System maintenance
Installation Considerations
Check Valve Location
- Install between pump and pressure tank
- Prevents tank pressure from pushing water back
- Maintains pressure between pump strokes
Pressure Switch Integration
For motorized systems:
- Can use standard pressure switch
- Set to match existing system
- Controls motor on/off
Pump Effort at Pressure
Pumping against pressure requires more effort:
- Each stroke works against tank pressure
- Higher pressure = more effort
- Consider 100CA for high-pressure systems
Practical Usage Tips
Hand Pumping Time
Expect 15-30 minutes to fill a standard pressure tank, depending on:
- Starting pressure
- Target pressure
- Cylinder size
- Your pumping pace
Motor Operation
With motor installed:
- Automated filling
- Pressure switch control
- Hands-free backup
Maximizing Efficiency
- Lower tank pressure = easier pumping
- 100CA cylinder for deepest wells with pressure
- Motor for regular pressure tank use
Common Questions
Q: Can I pump directly to fixtures without a tank? A: Yes, but pressure won't be consistent. Tank provides pressure storage.
Q: What if my well is too deep for my pressure setting? A: Options include: lower tank pressure, use 100CA cylinder, or pump to unpressurized storage then transfer.
Q: Does the pressure tank need to be pre-charged? A: Yes, maintain standard air pre-charge per tank manufacturer specifications.