Simple Pump Installation
“Can I install the SimplePUMP myself?”
You can install the Simple Pump in about 1.5 to 3 hours:
- If you possess average mechanical ability and are somewhat familiar with the installation of routine plumbing or irrigation piping,
- And if you have a pitless adaptor and your well cap is easily removed.
You should have a helper for any diy installation.
If your submersible piping comes through the well cap, we strongly recommend that you contact a qualified pump installer or licensed plumbing contractor to assist you.
“What size well does the SimplePUMP fit in?”
The largest component of the Simple Pump system is approximately 1.75″ OD. As a stand-alone application, the Simple Pump can be installed in a 2″ inside diameter well casing. The Simple Pump can be installed in the great majority of wells of 4″ and more, alongside an existing submersible.
“Can the SimplePUMP install in a 2″ casing.”
Yes, but there are some special considerations for installation.
A 2” casing is fairly flexible, when extending the usual 12-18 inches or so above the ground — even if metal. The leverage through the securely mounted pump can actually make a 2” casing deflect — as much as 2-3 inches for a metal casing or 6-7 inches for PVC. This deflection makes pumping tricky and, if large, could actually damage the top drop pipe.
We need a rigid mounting for the Simple Pump. The best option is to not mount directly on the 2” casing at all. Use a four foot section of 6″ metal casing as a sleeve around the 2″.
NOTE: The 6” casing sleeve will NOT be centered on the 2” casing. You’ll need to look at your new Simple Pump well cap and then position the 6” casing off-center of the 2”, so the Simple Pump port is in the correct position to be above the 2” casing.
Cut the 2” casing down to 12 inches above ground level. Dig down so the wider casing is well embedded in the earth, with its top two inches above the top of the 2” casing. Backfill around the casing.
To make even more secure, you can use cement to fill the space between to two casings. Just the fine slurry of Portland cement – no aggregate. Just be sure to securely cover the top of the 2″ casing, before pouring.
Now you can put the appropriate Simple Pump well cap on the LARGER casing, and install the pump on the larger casing, with the drop pipes going down the 2”.
“Can the Simple Pump be installed alongside my working submersible?”
In almost all wells, yes.
We don’t disturb — or rely upon — your submersible pump in order for our pump to work. Each system can work independently, no matter how our system is configured. You can continue to use your existing system, but if you lose power, you can get water from the Simple Pump, immediately.
“Can I put the pump in my basement and run a line to the well 20 feet away?”
No. Simple Pump must be located DIRECTLY ABOVE the water source. The pumping mechanism can only act in a straight vertical line. So this usually means on a well cap or well cover, on top of a casing.
“I have a hand dug well; what do I need to mount the pump?”
Yes. We can supply an adaptor that bolts to the concrete, metal or wood cover of such a well.
“My well has the ‘bumpout’ on the cap: will the Boshart cap work for this?”
Yes. The Boshart is a similar design to what you describe. The wiring comes out through a bumpout; the Simple Pump is installed on the top of the well cap.
“Can I use my old well cap?”
No. If there are ports on the top surface, they won’t be in the right position to also machine a port for the Simple Pump. If you have a pitless well cap, it is unlikely to have a flat surface to mount a Simple Pump is is probably not strong enough. We have our own well caps for pitless and non-pitless wells. We also have our own adaptors for wide dug or bored wells with covers.
“There seems to be something blocking my well.”
In most applications, the Simple Pump will readily fit in your existing domestic well without removing or disrupting your existing pump and motor.
Some deeper submersible pumps were installed using what are commonly referred to as “torque arrestors” or “center guides”. These fittings act to keep the discharge piping from the submersible pump in the center of the well and reduce the twisting effect, or torque, caused by the pump turning on and off. Only one torque arrestore is really needed (if at all), at the bottom. But sometimes guides may be installed further up the well.
Under normal applications, our drop pipe freely slides into the well casing. During your Simple Pump installation, if you have difficulty sliding the drop pipe into the well, there may be guides in place that the Simple Pump is hitting. If you encounter this condition, carefully remove the Simple Pump assembly from the well casing and contact a qualified pump installer for assistance. Installation of the Simple Pump will will require removal of unnecessary guides. The great majority of wells don’t have center guides. It is probably possible to remove enough of these to install the Simple Pump.
“Do I need to use a Safety Line?”
We do not mention or suggest the use of a safety line in conjunction with our standard pump system installations because…
- A safety line needs an aperature or access port to travel through. In many Simple Pump installations there is no room for another hole in the well cap.
- The Simple Pump installs through a 1.75″ port in the mounted well cap…the use of a safety line affixed to the pump cylinder would require installation steps that would be more risky than no safety line…ie…well cap not affixed until two drop pipe kits are installed so the means of safety line attachment can be installed below the well cap. The safety line mounting point also raises a problem with future pump maintenance.
- The SIM073 machined billet aluminum safety tool, properly used, offers a safe means of holding onto previously assembled 9-foot drop pipe kits.
- All Simple Pump systems with more than (12) drop pipe kits also come with a T-Handle Installation Assist Tool that allows safe, controlled handling of the drop pipe kits.