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Installation for the Simple Pump hand pump continued...


This section applies if you have a pitless adaptor and you can remove your current well cap by hand. You will remove your existing cover and inspect your well for any obstacles that might obstruct the installation of your new hand pump.

Make certain that your electric well power source has been shut off and locked off.

Remove your existing cover.

Untangle any wiring under the cover and pull the wires from the pump tight, with the excess out of the case.

Confirm unobstructed clearance down the well. Shine a high-intensity light source down the well. Best is a mirror used to reflect the sun to shine down the casing. You can see the water reflecting as deep as 200 feet if the well is straight. If there is no pressurized water pipe through the cap, you will see a special fitting (called a "pitless adapter") that takes water coming up from the submersible through an exit on the side, underground. There must be enough clearance to allow piping to the hand pump pass beside this fitting. The cylinder requires 1-3/4" diameter clearance.

On some installations, a number of "torque arrestors" are installed at intervals to keep the pipe and wiring at the center. These can prevent the hand pump piping from being installed. Yet, torque arrestors are only necessary very close to the electric pump—and the Simple Pump is always installed 10 or more feet above it. If you find torque arresters preventing clearance, a well company can remove the unneeded ones.

Check clearance for the cap—inspect the rim of the well casing. No matter what cap or casing type you have, the cap fits onto the casing rim snugly, without much clearance—by design—so inspecting the rim is important to ensure proper fit.

Side view check: The rim of the well casing should be smooth and level throughout.

Top view check: The rim’s thickness should be the same all the way around. Sometimes, if the casing was cut using a welding torch, there may be extra material on the outside that effectively thickens the rim. This needs to be removed. A sharp flat file will remove it. A hand grinder will also work very quickly.

*** Special Case: 2-Inch Casing

If your casing is 2”, it requires a rigid support. Otherwise, the normal forces from lever-arm movement make a 2” casing deflect (as much as 2-3” for a metal casing or 6-7” for PVC. The best option is to not mount directly on the 2” casing at all. Use a 4-5 foot section of 6" metal casing as a sleeve with the original 2” casing housed inside. Or if that is not available, the 6” PVC casing we have supplied.

Installation: If the casing is higher than 12 inches above ground level, cut the 2” casing down to 12 inches above ground level. Dig down so the 6” sleeve is embedded several feet into the earth, with its top two inches above the top of the 2” casing.

Use the 6” well cap to help you correctly position the 6” casing off-center of the 2” sleeve. The Simple Pump port on the 6” cap is one of just three—so all of the ports are located off-center. Backfill around the casing. Then securely cover the top of the 2” casing before using cement to fill the space between. Use just the fine slurry of Portland cement—no aggregate. Now you can put the Simple Pump well cap on the 6” sleeve, with the drop pipes going down the 2” casing.

*** Special Case: 4-Inch PVC Casing with no submersible pipe through top

A 4" PVC casing WITHOUT the stabilizing weight of a submersible hanging off the well cap is not as strong as would be ideal. A similar 6" reinforcting sleeve would be recommended. See section just above on 2".

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1140 Amarillo Drive, Gardnerville, Nevada 89460-7504
Phone: 877.492.8711 (toll free) or 775.229.8175
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