Installation for Model 100 & 125 Hand Pump continued...
Section 7: Pumping Water
It will require about one stroke for each foot of water depth to get the water up to the pump head. 100 feet will require about about 100 strokes. There is a very small (1/16”) bleeder (“weep”) hole about 4 feet below your pump head, in the top drop pipe. This takes about 15 minutes to drain and protects the pump against freezing.
Each time you go out to pump after a period of time, it will require about six to eight strokes to get the water back to the pump head. The check valves in the pump cylinder allow a very small amount of leakage over time. Over several days or weeks, you may need to pump a few extra strokes to get the water back to the top.
Pumping to your Pressure Tank
A 3/4-inch stainless steel outlet and a brass, lead-free, garden hose adapter are included with every pump head assembly. If you intend to pressurize your house pressure tank from the hand pump, or pump uphill, install a check valve. The Simple Pump check valve, the stainless nipple and garden hose adapter are all shown, right.
Make sure to use a check valve, or a relief valve, to prevent generating more than 50 psi. The Simple Pump can generate over 100 psi.
You may want to purge the air in the connecting hose or pipe, before the water reaches your pressure tank.
When the CV-1 (check valve with pressure gauge) is used, you can install a ball-valved "Y" hose adaptor at the pump head. (From your hardware store.) One branch goes to your pressure tank. One branch opens right there. You can open the side branch and pump for a few strokes until water comes out, purging air on the pump side of the check valve.
Then for air that has been introduced on the house side of the check valve...
*** Using the Simple Pump in Freezing Weather
A small weep hole in our drop pipe lets water drain out of the pump head to below freezing level. The critical factor is that air must be able to get into the pump to allow the water to drain out.
Normal Position of the Pump Handle
The normal at-rest position of the lever arm is vertical (right). The lever arm's vertical resting position keeps the rod inside the rod gland. This protects the rod from sources of contamination. Do NOT tie the handle in the down position.
If away from the pump: Removing handle for security
In some circumstances, you may wish to remove the handle and take it with you, reinstalling for each use. This is a simple procedure that just takes a few minutes. (Please keep in mind that the threads on the 3/4" stainless rod and clevis are left-hand.)
For the regular 24" and 36" handles
Do not remove any of the three clevis pins. Leave the complete lever arm linkage in one connected grouping. Remove the four 1/4-20 x 1/2" hex head cap screws where the lever bracket is attached to the flat, machined face on the pump head.
Then use the lever arm (with lever link arm and lever bracket still connected) as a wrench handle to unscrew the clevis from the 3/4" stainless rod in the pump head. (You may need to use a crescent wrench to hold the 3/4" stainless rod from rotating while disconnecting the clevis.)
For the heavy-duty (village) handle (36LAHD)
The 36LAHD has three SS clevis pins, one at each pivot point. The design of the pivot pins is such that the spring-loaded “wedge"pops out once the pin is pushed through the 1/2" hole, locking the pin in place through the lever arm.
(END OF INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS)