Installation Procedure for Model ADA100 Rotary Hand Pump
Section 5: Pump Head Installation
In this section we will review the installation and assembly of the pump head and drive system.
Tools / supplies needed:
a) Find the 3/4" diameter top pump rod (P3) and thread it onto the sucker rod at the well cover. Tighten with two pairs of vise grips. Grip the 3/4" rod only at the upper end where flats have been milled for a crescent wrench.
b) Apply Teflon tape to the male thread at the top of the drop pipe string. Thread the 1-1/4” female end of the 12-1/2” PVC adaptor onto the 1-1/4” male end of the drop pipe string. The female/opposite end of the adaptor has been bushed to 2” to attach to the male/bottom of the 2” riser tube. We have provided a 1-1/4” slip coupler that can be used (if necessary) to shorten the PVC adaptor if for some reason the pump piston is operating too close to the top of the pump cylinder. Two of these adaptors and a short length of 1-1/4” PVC pipe can be used (if necessary) to lengthen the PVC adaptor if for some reason the pump piston is operating too close to the bottom of the pump cylinder.
c) (two persons) Apply Teflon tape to the 2” male thread on the riser tube. Slide the pump head / cabinet assembly over the 3/4" shaft being careful to guide the 3/4” shaft through the rod gland mounted inside the pump head which is mounted in the bottom of the cabinet. The cabinet weighs 50lbs, so be careful.
d) Once the 3/4" rod is inserted through the rod gland (3” is ideal), with a 3/16” Allen wrench, loosely tighten the three Allen head bolts holding the taper flange to the well cover. This is a snug fit. Rotate the assembly counterclockwise if needed to arrive at a final elevation of approximately 34” as measured from the ground to the input crank drive shaft centerline. Snug up the three Allen head bolts to hold the elevation until the final function check.
e) Install the pre-assembled crank handle, crank arm, drive shaft, bearing housing, counter-weight assembly through the 2-1/8” hole in the cabinet (from the inside-out) with the crank handle leading. Tighten the bearing housing to the cabinet wall using four 5/16”-18 X ¾” Allen head bolts. Do not cross thread.
f) After positioning the two cam rollers in the yoke tracks, install the yoke to the 3/4” rod by tightening the 3/4” rod using a crescent wrench (gripping only on the flats of the top end of the rod). A few early models had right-hand threads on the yoke and the 3/4” rod. Later models had left-hand threads on the yoke and the 3/4” rod. Left-hand threads, when tightened, will not tend to untighten sucker rod connections.
g) Tighten all bolts and connections except for the three bolts in the taper lock on the well cover that were left snug in an earlier step.
h) Rotate the crank arm to bring water to the surface. The cam roller in the crank arm has been installed at the maximum stoke / rotation position which is at the end of the crank arm. This position describes or results in a cam roller rotation path of approximately six inches in diameter, resulting in a stoke of approximately six inches in length. Ideally, this six inch stroke should be in the center of the sixteen inch available length of pump cylinder. If the crank arm does not rotate freely, it is likely that the piston is not centered in the pump body and the piston is hitting either the bottom or top of the cylinder. There is one way to re-position the piston relative to the pump cylinder --- by increasing or decreasing the length of the 12-1/2” PVC adaptor threaded into the bottom of the riser tube. (PVC slip coupling fitting included, but you must use locally-sourced PVC cement). We have provided a 1-1/4” slip coupler that can be used (if necessary) to shorten the PVC adaptor if for some reason the pump piston is operating too close to the top of the pump cylinder. Two of these adaptors and a short length of 1-1/4” PVC pipe can be used (if necessary) to lengthen the PVC adaptor if for some reason the pump piston is operating too close to the bottom of the pump cylinder.